Should you put lighter or darker eyeshadow first?

14 Apr.,2024

 

Alongside its wicked sister winged eyeliner, eyeshadow is one of the trickiest techniques to master when you're easing your way into MUA territory. Even if you follow a YouTube tutorial second for second, or follow the beauty corner of TikTok religiously, you can still end up looking like someone attacked your eyes with a Crayola set, or end up with a ‘it’s givin' bruised up eye' moment.

This is because eye shapes vary from person to person, and what works for someone with monolids may not work for someone with hooded eyelids. But the good news is that trained makeup artists have dealt with peepers of all shapes and sizes, and they have some universal wisdom that will finally allow you to use that beautiful eyeshadow palette you've got catching dust in your beauty cabinet with confidence...

Instagram content

This content can also be viewed on the site it originates from.

1. Use at least two, if not more, makeup brushes

If you only use one eye makeup brush to create an eyeshadow look, you would a) have to wash it between each colour and b) choose between precision and a flawless blend.

Huda Kattan recommends the following for eyeshadow:

  1. Short hair synthetic brush: For applying colour to the lids as it picks up the maximum product.
  2. Fluffy domed brush: For blending.
  3. Rounded brush with dense bristles: To line under the eyes for a defined look.

Huda says she loves Zoeva brushes, and the GLAMOUR office is currently obsessed with brushes from the likes of W7 Cosmetics and Real Techniques.

If you're unsure how to apply eyeshadow, you've arrived at the perfect destination. If you want new techniques, we've got those, too. First, you must choose the right eyeshadow palette for your eye color and skin tone, and then it's time to learn how to layer the various shades on your lid. Ahead, makeup artist Tobi Henney shares how to create a basic eyeshadow look that complements your eye color and shape.

Click Play to See MUA Tobi Henney's Simple Eyeshadow Tutorial

Meet the Expert

Tobi Henney is a makeup artist based in New York City. Her client roster includes the likes of Ashley Graham, Barbara Palvin, Charlotte Lawrence, and more. She previously served as L'Oréal Paris Makeup Director for Australia.

Step One: Prime Your Lid

Always sweep a primer over your lids before applying eyeshadow that you want to stay on all day. We swear by Urban Decay's Primer Potion ($24), but there are all sorts of primers on the market (we also like MAC Prep + Prime 24-Hour Extend Eye Base, $25).

Why this step is important: If you have greasy lids or you're prepping a summer makeup look, the primer keeps the eyeshadow in place. You'll find your shadow won't budge after a day of sightseeing even in the most humid temperatures. 

Tools: You can use your finger to apply primer, but a Q-tip works also make a great budget-friendly tool. If you're more of a brush makeup applier, then simply use a makeup brush for an even application. 

Step Two: Sweep a Neutral Color Over Your Lids

Eyeshadow palettes come with several shades. For your lid, you'll want to choose a neutral shade—not the darkest, not the lightest. Sweep this color over the entire lid up to the crease. For a more dramatic look, you can go darker, but if you have light skin and eyes, you may be better off with a lighter shade as the dark look can be harsh. You'll also want to reconsider shimmer if you have more mature skin as it can accentuate fine lines.

Why this step is important: The neutral sweep of shadow is the base from which you'll build the rest of your look. Even if you're only going for a basic look for weekday or weekend, a neutral color will make your eyes pop and cover up any lid discoloration.

Tools: Throw out the freebie foam applicator that comes with some drugstore palettes. The best tool for eyeshadow application is a medium eyeshadow brush. You can get one at any drugstore, Sephora or department store. "Some beauty experts like to be edgy and recommend using your fingers to apply eyeshadow, but this never works for me," Henney says.

Huda Beauty

Nude Obsessions Eyeshadow Palette

$29.00

Step Three: Blend a Darker Color into Your Crease

For the next step, blend in a darker shade into your crease. Start from the inside of the eye with a thinner line growing thicker as it extends to the outside of the crease. Make sure the lids match and blend, blend, blend.

If you have a 3-color palette, choose the darkest color. If you have a 4-color palette, choose the third darkest. If you're not using a palette, use a color that's in the same family as your neutral color.

Why this step is important: This step adds drama and definition to your eyes.

Tools: Use a brush meant for the crease and apply it to the crease.

Tom Ford

Eye Quad in Cocoa Mirage

$88.00

Step Four: Add Highlighter Above the Crease

If you feel your eyes still need more color, you can take the lightest color in your palette and blend it in just above your crease. Try to keep the color off the brow bone (sweep color up to the brow bone) and stick with lighter shades, as dark shades aren't the best option here. 

Think of your lids like a rainbow, seamlessly blending from light to dark to light again. If you watch makeup application videos, you will see just how important blending with a makeup brush is when it comes to eyeshadow.

M.A.C.

217 Synthetic Blending Brush

$27.00

Step Five: Press a Light Shade into the Inside Corner of the Eye

To open up eyes, press your pinkie finger into the lightest color of the palette and then press your pinkie into the inside corner of your eye. This is the makeup artist's secret for making eyes appear wider and more awake.

Why this step is important: Nothing will make your eyes look as awake as this trick. Use it for special events, dates, evenings out, or on days when you didn't get a full eight hours of sleep. 

Tools: Always use your pinkie finger here. You don't want to press too much color into your eye, or it won't look as natural.

Should you put lighter or darker eyeshadow first?

At Last, Makeup Artist Tobi Henney Is Sharing Exactly How to Apply and Blend Eyeshadow